JSLALALAND

THE HUNGRY HOURS

Why does everyone's first meal in LA have to be In-N-Out? | The LA burger map 2026

The first thing to do off the plane isn't the hotel; it's In-N-Out, and Angelenos have known since 1948. From In-N-Out's secret menu to a 1947 counter diner and smash burgers born in backyards and parking lots.

Translated from Jasmine’s original Chinese. The illustrated slides are on the interactive reader.

Key points

Full text

  1. 01 | A little LA burger history

    1939 Hawkins, 1947 Apple Pan, 1948 In-N-Out and Cassell's, 1963 Pie 'n Burger, and then the smash burgers that popped up out of driveways and backyards in 2017–2020.

  2. 02 | Burger ordering, translated

    A Double-Double is two patties and two slices of cheese, protein style is wrapped in lettuce, and 'no substitutions' means it at some places. 'For crispy fries, say well-done.'

  3. 03 | In-N-Out: a little stand in 1948

    The Snyders' little stand in Baldwin Park was under 100 square feet, and the two-way intercom Harry built was an early version of the drive-thru. There are still tiny Bible verses printed on the bottom of the cups.

  4. 04 | The menu that isn't on the menu

    Animal Style, Protein Style, 3x3 and 4x4 are right on the website; the staff will know a Flying Dutchman and a Neapolitan shake; the 'Monkey Style' you see online probably isn't orderable.

  5. 05 | Plane-spotting by LAX

    The Sepulveda location sits right under the landing path, so grab an outdoor seat and watch the planes come in one after another. The headquarters is moving back to Baldwin Park, not to Tennessee.

  6. 06｜In-N-Out vs smash burger

    One has a menu that's barely changed in seventy-some years, with the sauce as the star; the other smashes a ball of meat onto a ripping-hot griddle for crispy edges. 'One's a classic, the other's the new classic.'

  7. 07｜The Apple Pan

    Since 1947, still just one U-shaped counter, where you watch the cook make your burger right in front of you. The signature is the Hickoryburger, and you have to finish with apple pie or banana cream pie.

  8. 08｜Pie 'n Burger

    A 1963 Pasadena institution; the current owner ate there at its opening when he was nine and bought the whole place in 1992. After the burger, have a slice of pie.

  9. 09｜Hawkins House of Burgers

    A family business that started as a little stand in Watts in 1939, now run by the youngest daughter. The Whipper adds pastrami and a hot link, big enough for two to share.

  10. 10｜Father's Office

    The Office Burger: no swaps, no changes, not even ketchup.

  11. 11 | The old-school ones

    Hinano Cafe in Venice with sawdust on the floor, the burger topped with a hot dog at Marty's little pale-blue stand, and the Cassell's patty melt inside Hotel Normandie.

  12. 12 | Where the smash burger started

    Burgers Never Say Die went from backyard pop-up with two-hour lines to opening a shop in 2019 that sells just one burger; Love Hour started in a parking lot, only opens in the evening, and has natural wine.

  13. 13 | The new generation of smash burgers

    Goldburger's LA Special is piled with thick-cut pastrami; Heavy Handed started in a Mar Vista driveway; a single at The Win~Dow is about $4–5.

  14. 14 | New in 2026 + the Bib Gourmand one

    Mike Majlak's 10/10 Burger opened in Hollywood; Burger She Wrote expanded to Brentwood; Bib Gourmand barbecue spot Moo's has a smoked brisket burger.

  15. 15 | Four burger routes

    Off the plane, head to the In-N-Out by LAX first; in West LA, do Apple Pan, then Marty's; on the Eastside, don't do both smash burger spots in one day. 'You can eat two burgers in a day, but you probably shouldn't.'

  16. 17 | Two-city mirror

    In Taipei, a burger is the thin patty from the breakfast shop with a milk tea; in LA, people line up, watch planes, and hold firm on no ketchup. 'In Taipei, a burger is breakfast; in LA, a burger is a religion.'

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An original JSLALALAND field guide by Jasmine Chang (@jslalaland).